Frequently Asked Questions

This issue may be several things:

• The breaker may really be tripped, but not look like it.  Some breakers trip and the switch lever only moves very slightly.  Always check by turning the breaker all the way off and then back on to see if it resets. 
• The outlets may be connected to a GFCI that is tripped.   Sometimes we’ll find that outlets in a different room have been connected to a GFCI and the homeowner doesn’t know this.
• It could be that one outlet has failed, causing those connected to it downstream to be effectively turned off.   This often happens if your outlets have been wired using a technique called “backstabbing”.
• It could be that the breaker has failed.  Older breakers do sometimes stop working.

Give us a call at 757-498-2653 to discuss your issue and get a free estimate.

Yes, if the outlet itself is the issue and the junction box inside the wall is still intact, repairs or replacements are usually straightforward. If the box is damaged, we can remove it and install a new one, as long as the wiring in the wall is still in good condition. Outlet installs get more complex with different wall types. Interior and exterior walls are built differently. Exterior walls may have added insulation and blocking that require extra care and time to work around.

Sometimes outlets and switches wear out. If an outlet is loose, cracked, or won’t hold a plug, it likely needs to be replaced. We always swap out “backstab only” outlets, as they can become unreliable over time. Some backstab-style devices allow wiring to be run under the screw, which is our preferred method. And if an outlet isn’t working, it may be controlled by a wall switch, which is something we always check first.

Typically, older homes with two-prong outlets don’t have a ground wire, so simply swapping them for three-prong outlets can create a safety risk. A solution is to use GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) receptacles or breakers, which detect current leaks and shut off power to prevent shock even without a ground wire. We can install a GFCI breaker or receptacle on each circuit, allowing the outlets to be safely updated to three-prong. Outlets will be labeled “GFCI Protected, No Equipment Ground” to indicate protection is in place, but that a true ground wire isn’t available, and standard circuit testers may not work correctly.

Power loss to half the house can result from an issue with one of the two incoming 120-volt “hot legs” from your electrical provider. Affected circuits and 240-volt appliances may not function properly. If you think you have this issue, give us a call.  We’ll often guide you to call the power company which may be able to fix it for free without us having to make a paid visit just to tell you it’s their issue.  

In a nutshell, yes. Faulty GFCIs or timers are common culprits, but they’re not the only ones. Improper wiring, water intrusion, outdated wiring practices on new equipment, or even simple operator error can also cause your pool pump to stop working.

This issue may be several things:

• The light switch might have failed. We see this often.
• The fixture itself might have failed. We see this with ceiling fan lights and others that have electronic circuits.
• If it is a fluorescent light fixture, a part inside the fixture, called the ballast, can wear out over time. It can be replaced, but we often recommend replacing the fixture with an equivalent LED fixture. It will cost just slightly more than replacing the ballast and will be more energy efficient.

Give us a call at 757-498-2653 to discuss your issue and get a free estimate.

Yes! Many homes were built without overhead lighting in bedrooms and instead use a switched outlet. We can convert that switch to control a new ceiling fixture by running wiring to a new ceiling box. We can also add ceiling lights in nearly any location — just let us know where you want it.

If your current fan wobbles or you're replacing a small ceiling fixture with a fan, you may need a fan-rated brace box. These are designed to handle the weight and movement of a ceiling fan safely. If you want a light on your fan, choose a model with a built-in light kit. Most fans today come with remotes or pull chains, and we can also install wiring for separate wall switches. Many customers choose to add dimmers and speed controls on the wall for convenience. We’ll walk you through your options based on your preferences.

Yes! Most existing lighting circuits can accommodate dimmers or smart switches, but it depends on the type of fixture and wiring you have. Some LED or CFL lights require compatible dimmers, and certain smart switches need a neutral wire in the box. We can evaluate your setup, recommend compatible options, and install them safely so you can enjoy modern control over your lighting.

Yes. Depending on the current panel amperage, this typically requires replacing both the panel and the meter base. Panels can also be replaced at the same amperage (if already adequate) with more breaker slots available for more circuits. 

It depends on the power requirements of the new appliance. Gas tankless water heaters rarely require a panel upgrade, but electric tankless heaters may. Electric tankless heaters typically need three or four new high-amperage (40-amp) circuits. Electric saunas will typically require one new lower lower-amperage circuit. For most homes, 200-amp service is usually sufficient for even these additions. If you have this kind of project in mind, we can do an on-site estimate and recommend exactly what you need. We won’t upsell you on a panel upgrade if one isn’t necessary.

We always recommend replacing Federal Pacific Electric (FPE) panels. They are known for not tripping a breaker when it senses a fault. This makes this brand a fire hazard. Challenger panels are also an obsolete brand with some of the same safety issues as FPE. Split bus panels are no longer manufactured, but can be safe. However, many still in use are old, and often wired incorrectly, leading to overheating and failure.. We recommend replacing them to renew the safety and reliability of your system.

Likely yes. You cannot add circuits to a fuse box which limits any improvements you can do. Like other obsolete equipment, they cannot be repaired and are well beyond their reliable lifetime. Since they are in homes that typically have very old wiring as well, we recommend an on-site evaluation and estimate for the improvement you are planning.

It depends. If your panel is full (no open slots) or rated below 150 amps, then you'll likely need an upgrade to handle large new loads. However, many homes already have enough space and capacity. If you send us a photo of your panel and let us know what you’d like to add, we’re happy to give you a more accurate answer for your situation.

Virginia code requires a permit and inspection for such changes. While homeowners are allowed to apply for permits and do their own work, many are daunted by both, especially doing it all safely and properly. A professional, licensed and insured electrician will take care of all that for you.

For overnight charging of most electric vehicles, a Level 2 charger (240V) is recommended. These typically draw between 16 and 80 amps, with 48amps being the most common. You'll need two open slots and enough capacity in your panel. Most chargers can be installed inside your garage or outside near your parking spot. We have experience with a variety of popular brands, including personal experience with our own EVs, and can recommend the best option based on your car and charging needs.